We arrived in Barcelona last night after a brief stop in Pamplona. Blair and I walked the entire ¨running of the bulls¨ route. It was much shorter than we expected. However, I´m sure if you´ve got a herd of angry bulls chasing you, it seems much longer. (Spectators hit the bulls with rolled up newspapers to make the bulls see red. I think I´d be carrying my own newspaper to beat back the spectators.) Gary, our guide, said the entire run takes about three minutes, and it´s all uphill. I also didn´t realize it´s not just one run; it´s a week´s worth of runs, all during San Fermin´s Feast Week. A small altar to San Fermin can be seen near where the race begins. I wonder what he thinks of all the hoopla?
Gary pointed out the two most dangerous spots on the route. The first is where the runners make a 90-degree turn from one narrow street onto another narrow street. The second most dangerous point is when everyone is dashing into the bull ring at the end of the race. On the weekends, about 3,000 runners participate, and a bottleneck is created at the entrance. A giant statue of Ernest Hemingway sits just outside of the bullring taking it all in. He´s the one who put Pamplona on the map, so they honored him with a statue.
After walking the route, we went into their plaza mayor, where some sort of street festival was going on. A bicyle-powered centrifugal force amusement ride was a main feature. We watched two young (12ish) boys strapped onto bicycles pedal their way to a complete 360-degree circle. I got dizzy just watching them. Over and over and over they went. It´s what I imagined I could do as a kid swinging, if I just pumped my legs hard enough.
From Pamplona, we continued our journey to Barcelona. Everyone agreed that San Sebastian had been the high point of the trip so far. It is a gorgeous place. The scenery (think stunning ocean view) alone is worth the trip. Throw in the mouth-watering food, the energetic street action and 70 degree temperatures and you´ve got heaven on earth.
Six of us ended our visit in San Sebastian by taking in ¨Cuatro Voces,¨ a flamenco ballet by Eva Yerbabuena, a dancer/choreographer who won the national prize for best flamenco dancer in 2001. (Her footwork was beyond amazing. Sounded like machine guns at times. I didn´t know feet could move so fast with such perfect timing.) She was also featured in a recent film by a British director called ¨The Women of Flamenco¨. I´m not familiar with it, but I want to see it when we return home. The ballet was in the beautifully renovated Victoria Eugenia theatre, which boasts four levels of gilded seating and a cherub-painted ceiling. The voices of the four men who sang while Eva danced gave me goosebumps. Her dance troupe was equally outstanding, especially the male dancers. The two guitarrists, the flautist and the percussionist also played their hearts out.
We arrived at our hotel outside of Barcelona a little after 8 p.m., and we had dinner at 8:30. (We watched ¨Billy Elliott¨ in Spanish with English subtitles on the bus. We also saw most of Austin´s own Richard Linklater´s film, ¨Before Sunrise¨.) The name of our hotel is NH Sant Boi. Lovely. Very modern. Our only complaint is that the hotel is located in an industrial park, far from downtown. We left the hotel at 9 a.m. this morning for a ¨vuelta¨ (circle) around Barcelona. Our first stop was the Parque Guell, Antonio Gaudi´s fanciful park that´s covered in brightly colored mosaics. What a place! It sort of reminds me of San Antonio´s Sunken Gardens...or what the Sunken Gardens could be. We then went to Gaudi´s unfinished cathedral, La Sagrada Familia, whose spires remind me of hand-dripped sandcastles. From there, we went to the top of Monjuic, where we ran into a group of traveling alumni from the University of Texas at Austin. After trading hook ém horns signs, we saw a gorgeous view of the entire city, and then we passed by the Olympic Stadium. I took a picture of the torch for Stacey Johnson, Palo Alto´s Dean of Arts and Humanities, who was an Olympic fencer. The guide reminded us that Barcelona is where Greg Louganis won all of his medals for diving in 1992. I remember what a thrill it was to watch him on TV.
We then were dropped off at Plaza Catalunya, and several of us headed down Las Ramblas to the Boqueria Market. I took a photo of a street performer dressed up like Salvador Dali. He did Dali proud. (I´ll load photos of these different sights when we get back to San Antonio, when I´m not being charged by the minute for an Internet connection.) Blair and I got slices of jamon serrano and Gallego cheese to make a sandwich. Scrumptious. We then sat on the sidewalk, ate our lunch and watched the world pass by.
Our next destination was the Cathedral. Gary told us that street musicians hang out in the area around there. We saw an opera singer, a harpist, and a couple of classical guitarists. The acoustics did justice to the talented performers. We also were able to pat a carved turtle that´s supposed to bring good luck. We then dashed into the Aragon Museum, which had a lovely courtyard and ancient illuminated manuscripts, some dating back to the 1300s...way before Columbus ever made his way to the Americas. Just goes to show you the importance of leaving a record behind.
We then walked up Avenida Porta de l´Angel, toward Plaza de Catalunya. More fantastic street musicians. This group was a clarinetist and a percussionist, who played something I´d never seen before. Sounded like a steel drum, but it was the shape of a walnut. Not exactly round, but rounded. Way cool. A woman was sitting next to the group. She was completely bald and wore sandals with bright orange socks. Quite the fashion statement. I don´t know that I´d be brave enough to pull that look off, but it worked for her.
Nature called, so we dashed into McDonald´s. We paid back their hospitality by purchasing .60 Euro vanilla ice cream cones that we ate on benches outside. While there, we ran into some friends from San Antonio. Small world! Nicolas teaches math and physics at UTSA, but his specialty is architectural theory. He´s in Barcelona to give a talk. His daughter, Sofia, is in Aedan´s dance class. His youngest daughter, Alexia, was with him. After we caught our breath, we headed down Passeig de Gracia to see more of Gaudi´s architecture. His famous Casa Batllo, a home he designed for a wealthy family, is on a block called ¨La Manzana de la Discordia¨ (Block of Discord) because of three different architectural styles that clash. In my humble opinion, Gaudi won the fight hands down. One of our fellow travelers, Kim, paid the 16 Euros to see the inside. I´ll probably regret that I didn´t go in, but you´ve got to save something to see on future visits. We then walked down to Casa Mila (La Pedrera) another of Gaudi´s masterpieces. It´s pretty, but I have to say that I like his more colorful (mosaic) work better.
After typing this blog in a smoke-filled cibercafe with a gang of teenagers whose language would make sailors blush, we´re headed back to the Plaza Catalunya to meet the bus at 6:30 p.m. Dinner at the hotel at 7:30. Collapse at 8;30 p.m. (Mariana says she´s going to head back to town tonight. I said she must be part vampire.) We´re off to Valencia tomorrow!
Monday, June 18, 2007
Saturday, June 16, 2007
San Sebastian, Spain
Although Roddy Stinson would grouse about an expensive ¨foreign junket¨ at taxpayers´ expense, San Antonio´s city planners could learn a thing or two (or a thousand) from those in charge of making Bilbao and San Sebastian two cities that my students and I never want to leave. BTW (by the way), a big thank you to the Express-News for linking our blogs to their website.
On Friday, we left Burgos and drove four hours north to Bilbao, which I hadn´t visited since 1981. The drive was spectacular: rolling hills, blue skies, bright red poppies against green, green grass, and rocky terrain. The lack of visual pollution (billboards) allows you to focus on the gorgeous landscape. We also managed to review the chapters in our history and creative nonfiction textbooks with our students in our classroom on wheels.
Those in charge of Bilbao´s urban planning have made the most out of the last 26 years. Bilbao is on the international map for being the home of Frank Gehry´s architectural masterpiece, the Guggenheim Museum. Ever since I learned about the museum, which opened in 1997, I´ve wanted to visit. I was not disappointed. From Jeff Koons´giant flower-covered dog to Richard Serra´s ¨The Matter of Time¨ installation to a giant spider sculpture by Louise Bourgeois to the building itself, all I can say is WOW. Kim, one of the travelers, said, ¨I wish you´d stop taking me places that make me cry.¨ She also got verklept in the Prado in Madrid. Seriously, at times you feel overwhelmed by the beauty. Serra´s giant installation, which you walk through, encourages you to become part of the art. Beyond cool. Put the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao on your list of places to visit before you die. (Venice and New York City also boast Guggenheim Museums of their own, but they must feel like ugly stepsisters ever since Cinderella, I mean Bilbao, hit the scene.)
Before our 4 p.m. tour of the museum, we had a chance to walk around Bilbao. We started in the Casco Viejo, old town, and made our way over to Zubiarte, a new high-end commercial center (mall), via the pedestrian/bicycle path/electric train passageway that runs alongside the Rio Bilbao. Casey, my mother´s traveling companion, said Aedan, my daughter, was having a grand mall seizure. She was tired of the old town and wanted to get over to the new. After lunch in the mall, we walked back to a children´s playground just outside of the museum where Aedan was able to climb and spin. After our tour, where we were given audio handsets to learn more about the art on display, we jumped on the bus to drive one hour further northeast to San Sebastian. Our hotel is actually in Irun, even closer to the French border than San Sebastian. Dinner, served on white linen table cloths, was at 8:30 p.m. Mariana and I stayed late after dinner to read over everyone´s blogs. So far, so good, but more attention needs to be paid to content along with grammar, punctuation and spelling.
Today, we got to sleep in late, a luxury! We woke up at 8 a.m. so we could meet downstairs for breakfast at 8:45. We left the hotel at 9:30 and drove into San Sebastian, where we picked up our local tour guide Bond, James Bond. (His name is really Eduardo, but that´s how he introduced himself.) What a card! He kept us laughing throughout the city, but he also imparted very interesting (Queen Isabel II lived in San Sebastian in a castle on the Playa de La Concha. She went swimming in the Mar Cantabrico (Cantabrian Ocean) daily, but she didn´t walk down to the beach. A horse-drawn carriage ferried her to and from the water.) and useful (places to eat, bathroom stops) information about the town. This is my third visit to San Sebastian (1982 and 1990 previously), and the city has become even more lovely since those trips. The view from Monte Urgull is breathtaking. Like Bilbao, San Sebastian gives primacy to people, not cars. Wide sidewalks accommodate pedestrians, bicycle riders, skateboarders and in-line skaters. It doesn´t seem that anyone is sitting at home watching television. Everyone (old, young, male and female) is out on the streets enjoying the fresh air and beautiful surroundings. Dogs abound. Too many cute ones to count.
After the tour, Blair, Aedan and I dropped our stuff in a public shower/restroom on the beach and we walked with Steve to the city´s ¨parte vieja¨ (old part) for lunch. I stopped and asked a local where we should eat. He recommended Bar Sport and Munto on Calle Fermin Calbeton. Am I ever glad I asked for his advice! At the Bar Sport, Aedan got a Fanta (orange soda), I got a tinto (red wine), and Blair and Steve ordered a beer (Mahou, a Spanish cerveza). My tinto was .85 Euros, the beer was 1.75 Euros, and the Fanta was 1.90 Euros. We told Aedan, who´s 10, that she´s going to have to start drinking red wine! (BTW, one Euro is $1.40, or at least that is what the exchange rate was at Frost Bank when we left San Antonio.)
For pintxos (pronounced pinchos, which is what they call tapas here in the Basque country), I had a jamon, queso and white asparagus concoction. Delicious. I then asked for a tortilla española, my first since returning to Spain. (Tortilla española is a potato-egg omelette made in a cast iron skillet with onions and olive oil that is then cut into pie-shaped wedges.) It was the best one I´ve ever had. Blair said, ¨Ever?¨ I replied, ¨Ever,¨ and I meant it.
We then went over to Munto, and I asked for membrillo con queso y nuez. (Membrillo is a jelly-like food that´s made of fruit. It was served with a wedge of cheese and a walnut on top of a baguette slice.) We chatted with the locals next to us, and they explained that Eskerrik Asko Etortzeagatik, the phrase printed on the napkin, meant ¨Thank you for coming!¨ The Basque language, Euskera, is not like any other language on the European continent. Some believe it is an ancient language, perhaps tied to Atlantis. No one knows for sure how it developed.
From lunch, Aedan, Blair and I walked over to the Buen Pastor (Good Shepherd) Cathedral. It was closed, which made Aedan happy, because she was ready to hit the beach. Skateboarders were tearing up the wide sidewalks behind the cathedral. It was fun to stop and watch them jump. I walked back with Blair and Aedan to the public showers/restrooms before heading out to find this Internet connection at a place called Zarr@net on the Calle San Lorenzo in the old city. Nice place with plenty of computers.
We´re meeting at the bus at 7:30 p.m. Dinner back at the hotel at 8:30 p.m. Tomorrow, we´re off to Barcelona with a stop in Pamplona. No bulls, but we can pretend, can´t we?
On Friday, we left Burgos and drove four hours north to Bilbao, which I hadn´t visited since 1981. The drive was spectacular: rolling hills, blue skies, bright red poppies against green, green grass, and rocky terrain. The lack of visual pollution (billboards) allows you to focus on the gorgeous landscape. We also managed to review the chapters in our history and creative nonfiction textbooks with our students in our classroom on wheels.
Those in charge of Bilbao´s urban planning have made the most out of the last 26 years. Bilbao is on the international map for being the home of Frank Gehry´s architectural masterpiece, the Guggenheim Museum. Ever since I learned about the museum, which opened in 1997, I´ve wanted to visit. I was not disappointed. From Jeff Koons´giant flower-covered dog to Richard Serra´s ¨The Matter of Time¨ installation to a giant spider sculpture by Louise Bourgeois to the building itself, all I can say is WOW. Kim, one of the travelers, said, ¨I wish you´d stop taking me places that make me cry.¨ She also got verklept in the Prado in Madrid. Seriously, at times you feel overwhelmed by the beauty. Serra´s giant installation, which you walk through, encourages you to become part of the art. Beyond cool. Put the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao on your list of places to visit before you die. (Venice and New York City also boast Guggenheim Museums of their own, but they must feel like ugly stepsisters ever since Cinderella, I mean Bilbao, hit the scene.)
Before our 4 p.m. tour of the museum, we had a chance to walk around Bilbao. We started in the Casco Viejo, old town, and made our way over to Zubiarte, a new high-end commercial center (mall), via the pedestrian/bicycle path/electric train passageway that runs alongside the Rio Bilbao. Casey, my mother´s traveling companion, said Aedan, my daughter, was having a grand mall seizure. She was tired of the old town and wanted to get over to the new. After lunch in the mall, we walked back to a children´s playground just outside of the museum where Aedan was able to climb and spin. After our tour, where we were given audio handsets to learn more about the art on display, we jumped on the bus to drive one hour further northeast to San Sebastian. Our hotel is actually in Irun, even closer to the French border than San Sebastian. Dinner, served on white linen table cloths, was at 8:30 p.m. Mariana and I stayed late after dinner to read over everyone´s blogs. So far, so good, but more attention needs to be paid to content along with grammar, punctuation and spelling.
Today, we got to sleep in late, a luxury! We woke up at 8 a.m. so we could meet downstairs for breakfast at 8:45. We left the hotel at 9:30 and drove into San Sebastian, where we picked up our local tour guide Bond, James Bond. (His name is really Eduardo, but that´s how he introduced himself.) What a card! He kept us laughing throughout the city, but he also imparted very interesting (Queen Isabel II lived in San Sebastian in a castle on the Playa de La Concha. She went swimming in the Mar Cantabrico (Cantabrian Ocean) daily, but she didn´t walk down to the beach. A horse-drawn carriage ferried her to and from the water.) and useful (places to eat, bathroom stops) information about the town. This is my third visit to San Sebastian (1982 and 1990 previously), and the city has become even more lovely since those trips. The view from Monte Urgull is breathtaking. Like Bilbao, San Sebastian gives primacy to people, not cars. Wide sidewalks accommodate pedestrians, bicycle riders, skateboarders and in-line skaters. It doesn´t seem that anyone is sitting at home watching television. Everyone (old, young, male and female) is out on the streets enjoying the fresh air and beautiful surroundings. Dogs abound. Too many cute ones to count.
After the tour, Blair, Aedan and I dropped our stuff in a public shower/restroom on the beach and we walked with Steve to the city´s ¨parte vieja¨ (old part) for lunch. I stopped and asked a local where we should eat. He recommended Bar Sport and Munto on Calle Fermin Calbeton. Am I ever glad I asked for his advice! At the Bar Sport, Aedan got a Fanta (orange soda), I got a tinto (red wine), and Blair and Steve ordered a beer (Mahou, a Spanish cerveza). My tinto was .85 Euros, the beer was 1.75 Euros, and the Fanta was 1.90 Euros. We told Aedan, who´s 10, that she´s going to have to start drinking red wine! (BTW, one Euro is $1.40, or at least that is what the exchange rate was at Frost Bank when we left San Antonio.)
For pintxos (pronounced pinchos, which is what they call tapas here in the Basque country), I had a jamon, queso and white asparagus concoction. Delicious. I then asked for a tortilla española, my first since returning to Spain. (Tortilla española is a potato-egg omelette made in a cast iron skillet with onions and olive oil that is then cut into pie-shaped wedges.) It was the best one I´ve ever had. Blair said, ¨Ever?¨ I replied, ¨Ever,¨ and I meant it.
We then went over to Munto, and I asked for membrillo con queso y nuez. (Membrillo is a jelly-like food that´s made of fruit. It was served with a wedge of cheese and a walnut on top of a baguette slice.) We chatted with the locals next to us, and they explained that Eskerrik Asko Etortzeagatik, the phrase printed on the napkin, meant ¨Thank you for coming!¨ The Basque language, Euskera, is not like any other language on the European continent. Some believe it is an ancient language, perhaps tied to Atlantis. No one knows for sure how it developed.
From lunch, Aedan, Blair and I walked over to the Buen Pastor (Good Shepherd) Cathedral. It was closed, which made Aedan happy, because she was ready to hit the beach. Skateboarders were tearing up the wide sidewalks behind the cathedral. It was fun to stop and watch them jump. I walked back with Blair and Aedan to the public showers/restrooms before heading out to find this Internet connection at a place called Zarr@net on the Calle San Lorenzo in the old city. Nice place with plenty of computers.
We´re meeting at the bus at 7:30 p.m. Dinner back at the hotel at 8:30 p.m. Tomorrow, we´re off to Barcelona with a stop in Pamplona. No bulls, but we can pretend, can´t we?
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Burgos, Spain
To stay healthy, it´s recommended that you walk 10,000 steps a day. In Spain, no problem achieving that goal. Walking around Madrid yesterday, I logged 36,028 steps!My pedometer was panting. No wonder I hit the bed at 10:30 p.m. hecho polvo...ground into dust! What a day! What a city! Madrid has got it going. The energy in the streets is invigorating. People out walking, talking, laughing, enjoying life. I think a pedestrian culture lends itself to a higher (better) quality of life. You get out, rub shoulders, breathe the air, smell the (delicious) smells. You live outside of your hermetically sealed bubble (office, car, house).
We enjoyed an incredible breakfast at our hotel, Tryp Norte near Chamartin train station, and met in the lobby at 9:30 a.m. to take the metro to the Prado. It remains one of the greatest art museums in the world. Mother, Casey, Blair, Aedan and I soaked in the works of art by Velazquez, Goya and Bosch, among others. ¨Las Meninas¨ by Velazquez makes everything else pale in comparison, I think. However, Bosch´s ¨Garden of Earthly Delights¨ still gives me a thrill. When I was in college, I learned that he painted the triptych just after Columbus landed in America. His dark view of the unspoiled land (paradise), human degredation of said land, and hell (think end of the world) pulls you in. Take a look at it when you have a chance.
From the Prado, we walked down Castellana Avenue to the Bank of España metro stop to ride to the Canal metro stop. We dropped off eight pounds (literally) of Aunt Aggie De´s Pralines (made in Sinton, Texas) to my Spanish family that I lived with in 1981-1982. It was great to see Pilar, my Spanish mom who just turned 80 but looks like she´s 60, and Paco, my Spanish father, who also looks much younger than his 80+ years. (Life in Spain definitely agrees with them.) We stayed for a short while since we plan on having a big reunion with the whole family---my five Spanish sisters and their spouses and kids---when we return to Madrid.
We walked down Cea Bermudez, the street I lived on, toward Moncloa, the university area. We then went to El Corte Ingles on Princesa for lunch on the seventh floor. It felt good to sit down after such a long walk, and we enjoyed croquetas de jamon y papas fritas (ham croquettes and fried potatoes). After lunch, we cruised around the store. Didn´t buy anything. One Euro equals $1.40, so everything is very expensive. We then walked over to the Chocolateria San Gines, our favorite spot in Madrid. My mother said, ¨Someone could walk in here with a bad attitude and they´d walk out happy.¨ I agree. Chocolate, especially San Gines´ rich dark chocolate, is ambrosia of the gods. Chocolate y churros at San Gines is enough to make anyone take a plane to Spain. (I´d like to open up a franchise in San Antonio. I think it would go over big.)
From San Gines, we strolled through La Plaza Mayor, filled with artists, living ¨statues¨(people dressed up in costumes who stand completely still until you drop money into their tip jar...we saw Velazquez and a Princess Amadala-type character), people sipping coffee at outdoor cafes, and souvenir shops. One artist I spoke with gave me his card, and I learned that his name was Antonio. I told him that we were from San Antonio, Texas. He reminded me that today was Saint Anthony´s feast day. I´d forgotten. Saludos a San Antonio!(If you ever lose anything, ask Saint Anthony to help you find it. He´ll come through for you.)
We met up with the group at Kilometro Zero en La Puerta del Sol at 6:30 p.m. (All roads in Spain start and are measured from that point.) Dinner at Anonimatto. Delicious roasted chicken and mashed potatoes.
Today we left the hotel at 8:30 a.m. after another grand breakfast. I told my students not to get used to it. Breakfast in Spain in usually very meagre: coffee and a couple of cookies or a hard roll. This breakfast buffet beat all. I especially enjoyed the jamon serrano and tasty queso (cheese), not sure what kind, only that it was delicious. The bus ride to Burgos was about 4 hours. We stopped and took a stretch break on the way. The scenery enroute was spectacular: rolling hills, bright red poppies, ancient stone churches with beautiful bell towers, red tiled roofs, and no visual pollution (billboards) save for the occasional silohuette of a big black bull (toro), a liquor ad.
We have a 4 p.m. tour scheduled at the Cathedral, so I want to finish up this entry so we can grab a bite to eat before then. We´re in a ¨Cibercafe¨ called Caberet. The bartender is very nice, and he told me that he visited the U.S. (Baltimore, DC and NYC) in February. I love that the Internet connects all of us, but I especially love that we are able to travel back and forth to each other´s stomping grounds, forging new friendships and experiencing new sights, sounds, cultures, tastes, and ways of thinking, seeing and being.
We enjoyed an incredible breakfast at our hotel, Tryp Norte near Chamartin train station, and met in the lobby at 9:30 a.m. to take the metro to the Prado. It remains one of the greatest art museums in the world. Mother, Casey, Blair, Aedan and I soaked in the works of art by Velazquez, Goya and Bosch, among others. ¨Las Meninas¨ by Velazquez makes everything else pale in comparison, I think. However, Bosch´s ¨Garden of Earthly Delights¨ still gives me a thrill. When I was in college, I learned that he painted the triptych just after Columbus landed in America. His dark view of the unspoiled land (paradise), human degredation of said land, and hell (think end of the world) pulls you in. Take a look at it when you have a chance.
From the Prado, we walked down Castellana Avenue to the Bank of España metro stop to ride to the Canal metro stop. We dropped off eight pounds (literally) of Aunt Aggie De´s Pralines (made in Sinton, Texas) to my Spanish family that I lived with in 1981-1982. It was great to see Pilar, my Spanish mom who just turned 80 but looks like she´s 60, and Paco, my Spanish father, who also looks much younger than his 80+ years. (Life in Spain definitely agrees with them.) We stayed for a short while since we plan on having a big reunion with the whole family---my five Spanish sisters and their spouses and kids---when we return to Madrid.
We walked down Cea Bermudez, the street I lived on, toward Moncloa, the university area. We then went to El Corte Ingles on Princesa for lunch on the seventh floor. It felt good to sit down after such a long walk, and we enjoyed croquetas de jamon y papas fritas (ham croquettes and fried potatoes). After lunch, we cruised around the store. Didn´t buy anything. One Euro equals $1.40, so everything is very expensive. We then walked over to the Chocolateria San Gines, our favorite spot in Madrid. My mother said, ¨Someone could walk in here with a bad attitude and they´d walk out happy.¨ I agree. Chocolate, especially San Gines´ rich dark chocolate, is ambrosia of the gods. Chocolate y churros at San Gines is enough to make anyone take a plane to Spain. (I´d like to open up a franchise in San Antonio. I think it would go over big.)
From San Gines, we strolled through La Plaza Mayor, filled with artists, living ¨statues¨(people dressed up in costumes who stand completely still until you drop money into their tip jar...we saw Velazquez and a Princess Amadala-type character), people sipping coffee at outdoor cafes, and souvenir shops. One artist I spoke with gave me his card, and I learned that his name was Antonio. I told him that we were from San Antonio, Texas. He reminded me that today was Saint Anthony´s feast day. I´d forgotten. Saludos a San Antonio!(If you ever lose anything, ask Saint Anthony to help you find it. He´ll come through for you.)
We met up with the group at Kilometro Zero en La Puerta del Sol at 6:30 p.m. (All roads in Spain start and are measured from that point.) Dinner at Anonimatto. Delicious roasted chicken and mashed potatoes.
Today we left the hotel at 8:30 a.m. after another grand breakfast. I told my students not to get used to it. Breakfast in Spain in usually very meagre: coffee and a couple of cookies or a hard roll. This breakfast buffet beat all. I especially enjoyed the jamon serrano and tasty queso (cheese), not sure what kind, only that it was delicious. The bus ride to Burgos was about 4 hours. We stopped and took a stretch break on the way. The scenery enroute was spectacular: rolling hills, bright red poppies, ancient stone churches with beautiful bell towers, red tiled roofs, and no visual pollution (billboards) save for the occasional silohuette of a big black bull (toro), a liquor ad.
We have a 4 p.m. tour scheduled at the Cathedral, so I want to finish up this entry so we can grab a bite to eat before then. We´re in a ¨Cibercafe¨ called Caberet. The bartender is very nice, and he told me that he visited the U.S. (Baltimore, DC and NYC) in February. I love that the Internet connects all of us, but I especially love that we are able to travel back and forth to each other´s stomping grounds, forging new friendships and experiencing new sights, sounds, cultures, tastes, and ways of thinking, seeing and being.
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
Madrid, Spain: We´re here!
It´s good to be ¨home¨! (Madrid was my home during my junior year of college, and it always feels good to be back.) We just ate our fill of paella, carne con papas, and neopolitan ice cream at El Museo de Vino near the Puerta del Sol. Now we´re typing in our blogs on deadline. Gary, our tour director, wants us to meet at 9 p.m. to head back to the hotel.
The flights from San Antonio to Newark and Newark to Madrid were good. Cramped, but good. Everyone´s luggage, but mine and Sarah´s, arrived without a problem, and ours arrived on the next flight. (Thank goodness! The Continental employee who helped us was an American--from Honolulu--who´s lived in Madrid for the past 25 years. I told her that I understood why.) On the plane, we met a group from the Canary Islands, who´d been visiting San Antonio for a week. They did a special misa folklorico (folkloric mass) at San Fernando Cathedral while they were in town. I´m sorry I didn´t know anything about it, or I would have gone. I believe they also performed at the Folklife Festival. Nice people! They invited us to visit the Canaries on our next trip. I´d love to take them up on the offer.
From the hotel, we got on a tour bus and traveled down Castellana, a lovely tree-lined boulevard with beautiful red and yellow flowers designed to look like the flag of Spain. We passed the Real Madrid Soccer Stadium, a giant El Corte Ingles (with a mermaid billboard), a Botero sculpture (giant hand), the U.S. Embassy, a square dedicated to Christopher Columbus, the Palacio de Comunicaciones--an unbelievably beautiful post office, and Cibeles fountain. We then turned onto Alcala and then onto Gran Via, two of Madrid´s main streets (think Fifth Avenue). Tons of shops, too many McDonald´s, and giant billboards for American films (Ocean´s 13, Spiderman 3, and Pirates of the Caribbean 3).
We traveled to the Palacio Real, Spain´s royal palace, for a guided tour. Until I read ¨The History of Spain,¨ I didn´t realize the king who built the palace was originally from France, so that´s why the palace looks so French. Think Versailles. Rich tapestries in gold, silver and silk, parquet wood floors, marble for days, gold everywhere, painted ceilings, and on and on. The ¨Smoking Room¨ is my favorite room. Chinese-style enamel everywhere. The gigantic dining hall isn´t too shabby either. (I would love to go to a state dinner there some day!)
From the Palacio Real, we made a stop at La Plaza de España to see a sculpture of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. When we return to Madrid at the end of the trip, our hotel will be nearby. Great location, close to everything I want to see and visit.
Dinner at the Museo de Vino was quite good. I sat with some of our Alaskan busmates. I also met a family from San Antonio whose daughter is studying in Madrid for the summer. Small world!
Stay tuned for more scoop. Right now, we´re all tired after our all-day travel across the Atlantic. (Although not as tired as our friends from Alaska. It took them 26 hours of non-stop travel to get here!) It´s good to be back in España. Thanks for traveling with us!
The flights from San Antonio to Newark and Newark to Madrid were good. Cramped, but good. Everyone´s luggage, but mine and Sarah´s, arrived without a problem, and ours arrived on the next flight. (Thank goodness! The Continental employee who helped us was an American--from Honolulu--who´s lived in Madrid for the past 25 years. I told her that I understood why.) On the plane, we met a group from the Canary Islands, who´d been visiting San Antonio for a week. They did a special misa folklorico (folkloric mass) at San Fernando Cathedral while they were in town. I´m sorry I didn´t know anything about it, or I would have gone. I believe they also performed at the Folklife Festival. Nice people! They invited us to visit the Canaries on our next trip. I´d love to take them up on the offer.
From the hotel, we got on a tour bus and traveled down Castellana, a lovely tree-lined boulevard with beautiful red and yellow flowers designed to look like the flag of Spain. We passed the Real Madrid Soccer Stadium, a giant El Corte Ingles (with a mermaid billboard), a Botero sculpture (giant hand), the U.S. Embassy, a square dedicated to Christopher Columbus, the Palacio de Comunicaciones--an unbelievably beautiful post office, and Cibeles fountain. We then turned onto Alcala and then onto Gran Via, two of Madrid´s main streets (think Fifth Avenue). Tons of shops, too many McDonald´s, and giant billboards for American films (Ocean´s 13, Spiderman 3, and Pirates of the Caribbean 3).
We traveled to the Palacio Real, Spain´s royal palace, for a guided tour. Until I read ¨The History of Spain,¨ I didn´t realize the king who built the palace was originally from France, so that´s why the palace looks so French. Think Versailles. Rich tapestries in gold, silver and silk, parquet wood floors, marble for days, gold everywhere, painted ceilings, and on and on. The ¨Smoking Room¨ is my favorite room. Chinese-style enamel everywhere. The gigantic dining hall isn´t too shabby either. (I would love to go to a state dinner there some day!)
From the Palacio Real, we made a stop at La Plaza de España to see a sculpture of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. When we return to Madrid at the end of the trip, our hotel will be nearby. Great location, close to everything I want to see and visit.
Dinner at the Museo de Vino was quite good. I sat with some of our Alaskan busmates. I also met a family from San Antonio whose daughter is studying in Madrid for the summer. Small world!
Stay tuned for more scoop. Right now, we´re all tired after our all-day travel across the Atlantic. (Although not as tired as our friends from Alaska. It took them 26 hours of non-stop travel to get here!) It´s good to be back in España. Thanks for traveling with us!
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
San Antonio, Texas
This week at Palo Alto College has been a journalistic boot camp. The students are learning how to write like journalists, which is a very different style of writing than what they have done in their English, History and Government classes.
Yesterday, we reviewed what makes something newsworthy (impact, proximity, timeliness, prominence, novelty, conflict, cooperation/consensus, information, and common experience) and how to prioritize facts/information. They also learned how to write a lead, the opening paragraph in a news story, using only 19-20 words. We talked about journalists' rights (First Amendment) and responsibilities (accuracy and fairness). Roy Peter Clark's "The Writing Process" (sniff around, explore ideas, collect evidence, find a focus, select the best stuff, recognize an order, write a draft, and revise/clarify) provided a road map for their writing. "Be Specific" and "Don't Tell, but Show," chapters from Natalie Goldberg's book "Writing Down the Bones," also gave concrete examples of what makes writing excellent.
Mariana lead discussion of the first chapter in "The Story of Spain" by Mark Williams. I have to say I love her choice of texts. Williams knows how to craft an engaging tale that makes you want to read on. What a soap opera the history of Spain has been!
Today, the students talked about what stories they'd like to research (report) and write about in their lifetimes, and I was impressed by the range of interesting ideas. They also talked about stories in their neighborhoods that are under reported (or not reported on at all) that they'd like to cover or see more coverage on. We then reviewed the lead exercise they completed at home. Passive voice versus active voice has been placed on tomorrow's agenda. I passed out an inverted pyramid story exercise for them to complete at home today. Their challenge is to write a one-page news story with provided facts and quotes.
Mariana then lead discussion on the second chapter of Williams' book. We learned about the Roman's influence on the Iberian peninsula. It's so amazing to think that the Romans built the aqueduct in Segovia at the end of the first century/beginning of the second century, and it's still standing...almost 2,000 years later! The Romans, who were very big on infrastructure, also built roads and bridges.
Tomorrow is our last class day at Palo Alto College. We'll be learning on the run while we are in Spain. Time on our motor coach will provide us with ample opportunity to continue our discussions. Plus, we'll be learning in each and every place we visit. For those who would like to travel along with us, here's our itinerary:
12 Madrid (Orientation/Prado)
13 Madrid (Sightseeing/Palacio Real)
14 Santo Domingo de Silos/Burgos
15 Bilbao/San Sebastian
16 San Sebastian
17 Pamplona/Barcelona
18 Barcelona
19 Valencia
20 Granada
21 Granada/Torremolinos
22 Torremolinos
23 Sevilla
24 Sevilla
25 Cordoba/Puerto Lapice/Madrid
26 Madrid
27 Madrid
28 Madrid
29 Madrid
30 Madrid
1 Madrid
2 Depart Madrid
Yesterday, we reviewed what makes something newsworthy (impact, proximity, timeliness, prominence, novelty, conflict, cooperation/consensus, information, and common experience) and how to prioritize facts/information. They also learned how to write a lead, the opening paragraph in a news story, using only 19-20 words. We talked about journalists' rights (First Amendment) and responsibilities (accuracy and fairness). Roy Peter Clark's "The Writing Process" (sniff around, explore ideas, collect evidence, find a focus, select the best stuff, recognize an order, write a draft, and revise/clarify) provided a road map for their writing. "Be Specific" and "Don't Tell, but Show," chapters from Natalie Goldberg's book "Writing Down the Bones," also gave concrete examples of what makes writing excellent.
Mariana lead discussion of the first chapter in "The Story of Spain" by Mark Williams. I have to say I love her choice of texts. Williams knows how to craft an engaging tale that makes you want to read on. What a soap opera the history of Spain has been!
Today, the students talked about what stories they'd like to research (report) and write about in their lifetimes, and I was impressed by the range of interesting ideas. They also talked about stories in their neighborhoods that are under reported (or not reported on at all) that they'd like to cover or see more coverage on. We then reviewed the lead exercise they completed at home. Passive voice versus active voice has been placed on tomorrow's agenda. I passed out an inverted pyramid story exercise for them to complete at home today. Their challenge is to write a one-page news story with provided facts and quotes.
Mariana then lead discussion on the second chapter of Williams' book. We learned about the Roman's influence on the Iberian peninsula. It's so amazing to think that the Romans built the aqueduct in Segovia at the end of the first century/beginning of the second century, and it's still standing...almost 2,000 years later! The Romans, who were very big on infrastructure, also built roads and bridges.
Tomorrow is our last class day at Palo Alto College. We'll be learning on the run while we are in Spain. Time on our motor coach will provide us with ample opportunity to continue our discussions. Plus, we'll be learning in each and every place we visit. For those who would like to travel along with us, here's our itinerary:
12 Madrid (Orientation/Prado)
13 Madrid (Sightseeing/Palacio Real)
14 Santo Domingo de Silos/Burgos
15 Bilbao/San Sebastian
16 San Sebastian
17 Pamplona/Barcelona
18 Barcelona
19 Valencia
20 Granada
21 Granada/Torremolinos
22 Torremolinos
23 Sevilla
24 Sevilla
25 Cordoba/Puerto Lapice/Madrid
26 Madrid
27 Madrid
28 Madrid
29 Madrid
30 Madrid
1 Madrid
2 Depart Madrid
Monday, June 4, 2007
San Antonio, Texas
We're off and running! A week from today, we'll be on our way to the Kingdom of Spain.
Mariana Ornelas, a professor of Humanities, and I, Denise Barkis Richter, a professor of Journalism/Communications at Palo Alto College, are leading a group of 13 students to Spain during the first summer session.
Today, the students read "A rat in my soup" by Peter Hessler and "In Madrid, there's no such thing as too much ham" by Daisann McLane to understand the type of writing that they'll be learning how to do while we're studying and traveling abroad. Both stories feature amazing descriptions that incorporate all five senses, abundant humor, complete dialogue, interesting facts/information, and make-you-want-to-continue-reading leads, the opening sentence, that hook you in. The students discussed what makes these stories excellent, and we aspire to write like this during our time on the road and here in San Antonio.
My hopes and dreams for this study abroad are that each student traveler will return to San Antonio a savvier world citizen with an appreciation for the people, culture, language, lifestyle and history of the Iberian peninsula. I spent my junior year of college in Madrid, Spain, in the early 1980s, and I firmly believe that there is no better educational opportunity. This experience will stay with these students the rest of their lives, and I am excited and happy for them.
I imagine that Spain will be as delightful as ever. This will be my fifth trip to Spain, and I never tire of it. I can't wait to visit some of my old haunts. In addition, I look forward to exploring some new places. Thanks for joining our adventure! We hope that our blogs give you an insight into Spain that you might never have had before. Welcome!
Mariana Ornelas, a professor of Humanities, and I, Denise Barkis Richter, a professor of Journalism/Communications at Palo Alto College, are leading a group of 13 students to Spain during the first summer session.
Today, the students read "A rat in my soup" by Peter Hessler and "In Madrid, there's no such thing as too much ham" by Daisann McLane to understand the type of writing that they'll be learning how to do while we're studying and traveling abroad. Both stories feature amazing descriptions that incorporate all five senses, abundant humor, complete dialogue, interesting facts/information, and make-you-want-to-continue-reading leads, the opening sentence, that hook you in. The students discussed what makes these stories excellent, and we aspire to write like this during our time on the road and here in San Antonio.
My hopes and dreams for this study abroad are that each student traveler will return to San Antonio a savvier world citizen with an appreciation for the people, culture, language, lifestyle and history of the Iberian peninsula. I spent my junior year of college in Madrid, Spain, in the early 1980s, and I firmly believe that there is no better educational opportunity. This experience will stay with these students the rest of their lives, and I am excited and happy for them.
I imagine that Spain will be as delightful as ever. This will be my fifth trip to Spain, and I never tire of it. I can't wait to visit some of my old haunts. In addition, I look forward to exploring some new places. Thanks for joining our adventure! We hope that our blogs give you an insight into Spain that you might never have had before. Welcome!
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